FAR AWAY to the south bayous— ruptured oil well tar balls soiling protected wetlands sea sponges crabs, fish, algae and octopus —coral reefs RÍO LAGARTOS thatch-roofed hut with stick walls crickets were singing village posada agua hibiscus tea Yucatan, Mexico ragged mangrove swamp salt encrusting dead stumps black coral fishing for octopus a child sitting on blue steps blue-black silt sea grass pelican rookery awash in crude oil rig spill in the south stained tortoise eggs